Perfect First Fair Isle Sweater — My Experience with British Fine Yarn

English
Blue and light gray two-color colorwork sweater knit with British Fine yarn, featuring a short and modern silhouette.

I finally finished knitting “Cross”, a design featured in the amuhibiknit book, which I started last December.
The pattern calls for Puppy British Fine yarn.

The combination of deep blue and light gray is absolutely beautiful, and it was such a joy to knit.

You can also find this pattern on Ravelry, so even if you don’t live in Japan, you can purchase and knit it!
👉 Ravelry pattern page

Using the recommended yarn — Puppy British Fine

Ravelry: Puppy British Fine (ブリティッシュファイン)

I used Blue (007) and Gray (010).
In the book, the model wears this color combo with a white skirt—it’s a perfect match.

Both are the same yarn, but when knitting, I noticed that the blue strand was noticeably thinner.

If you want to substitute yarn, I think any Light Fingering weight will work well.

Comparing yarn thickness between Blue and Gray

Puppy British Fine: Comparison of Thickness by Color

※Puppy British Fine: Comparison of Thickness by Color

l though it’s hard to tell from photos, the blue yarn feels a bit finer than the gray.
It wasn’t just one skein—throughout the project, the blue stayed thinner overall.

A friend of mine mentioned the same thing: “Some skeins of British Fine are unusually thin.”
At this point, it’s not just British Fine — it’s British Super Fine! 😄

Since the gray yarn runs behind the blue, the fabric doesn’t look sparse,
but if you look closely, you can see that the blue strand is definitely thinner.

Whenever I found sections that felt too fragile, I cut them and reinforced the joins later.

Knitting notes

There’s nothing particularly difficult about the pattern — just follow the chart as written and you’ll be fine.

Tip: How to handle long floats

When floats run over five stitches, I usually catch the yarn in the middle.
However, I saw designer Mikiko Umemoto mention on Instagram that she doesn’t catch floats at all
and that made me think, “That’s totally okay too.”

Catching floats helps prevent snagging when wearing, but it’s not always necessary.

Finished piece — the cropped length pairs perfectly with wide bottoms (well, almost)

When I tried it on, it looked even better than I expected!
Friends at my knitting meetup also said, “That color really suits you!” — and they were right.

The overall colorwork pattern looks complex, but once you get into rhythm, it’s pleasantly meditative.
Since it only uses two colors, I’d actually recommend it as a first colorwork project.

That said… mine turned out a bit larger than planned.
I didn’t properly swatch 😅 — and the book lists Japanese size 3 (3.0 mm) and size 2 (2.75 mm) needles,
but I used 3.25 mm, which is slightly thicker than the Japanese size 3.

So I suspect if I had used the actual 3.0 mm needles, the fit would’ve been just right.

Definitely knitting this again — next time, without a yarn guide!

This time I used a yarn guide for colorwork,
but at a knitting meetup, someone showed me an easy way to hold both yarns in the French style,
without needing a guide.

So next time, I’ll try knitting without the yarn guide and without catching floats —
maybe in another color combo.

…Though, who knows when that will be. My knitting queue is pretty full right now! 😅。

Related post

If I had used Japanese size 3 (3.0 mm) needles instead of US 3 (3.25 mm),
the fit would’ve been perfect.

Recently, more Japanese books are listing overseas needle sizes,
so I made a comparison chart for Japanese vs. international knitting needle sizes.

It’s handy when checking gauge or buying new needles — feel free to use it:
👉 Knitting Needle Size Comparison Chart